To Jbeil

The Mediterranean sprays against the shoreline of the world's oldest seaport, Jbeil (also known as Byblos), are breathtaking. After driving through Jabal Libnan we reached the seaport and I marveled at its antique grandeur. The view was beyond belief, in front of me was the Mediterranean, further on was the ancient Byblos castle, to the right the ancient seaport, used by mariners since time immemorial.

The castle was a combination of two parts fairy tale mixed with one half history text book. The area had been continuously inhabited by some of the world's most interesting invaders and civilizations. To name a few of them the Phoenicians, Alexander the Great's Greeks, Ramses' Egyptians, Romans, Frankish Crusaders, Ottomans, Arabs, and yes, even the French all called Jbeil and its castle home at one time or another. The ruins were quite expansive, and spread over a large area that was buttressed by the sea. At the top of the castle there was a view to die for. I could see all the way out to the Mediterranean and the whole city (including the old historic parts) of Jbeil.

Jbeil is a primarily Christian city on the Lebanese coast, so the political graffiti was a bit different than what one would find in a place like Beirut. The main contenders for wall space in Jbeil were Bachir Gemayel (assassinated president of Lebanon and founder of the Lebanese Forces), Orange check marks belonging to Michel Aoun's Tayyar Movement, Kataeb Party graffiti in the shape of a cedar, and Samir Geagea and his Lebanese Forces.

You could definately see that Jbeil had been hit hard by the lack of tourists. The zouk (market) down by the ancient seaport was virtually empty, the vendors tried to charge an arm and a leg for anything, I must say though I found a beautiful (albeit overpriced, so I didn't purchase anything) book store loaded with Lebanese history books in three different languages.

I love the imagery that always shows Israel or Lebanon with a dove and olive branch in its mouth. These are two places where political violence knows no bounds, but I can understand the pictures to a point. As I stood atop the Jbeil castle I realized how peaceful a place Lebanon could potentially be. I would guess that the combination of seaspray, expansive views, Crusader era embattlements and the beautiful breeze would have that effect.

A Night at ABC with the GoC & A Late Night With Hizbollah At LAU

Last night I took 'le service' (Lebanese taxi for about a dollar) to Future TV in Spears to meet a friend. She picked me up in her car and took me to ABC Achrafieh. To correct a previous post the ABC I went to earlier was farther east and on the water. ABC Achrafieh was a palace, loaded with all of the most posh Lebanese, it was definately comparable to an upscale American mall. ABC Achrafieh was loaded with security following the bombing, and in the parking garage we passed the area the bomb blast hit.

My friend is a member of the GoC or Guardians of the Cedars. They are considered and consider themselves to be the elite of the Lebanese right wing, and often view the Ouwet or Lebanese Forces (LF) as backward rednecks. I stop at calling them a "Christian party" because that would incure the wrath of some non-Christian AND Christian party members. The GoC consider themselves the purest form of Lebanese Nationalists. Many in the West would remember the GoC from Robert Fisk or other journalists who popularized them by talking about how their phrase was, "ﻋﻠﻰ ﻜﻝ ﻠﺒﻨﺎﻨﻲ ﺍﻥ ﻴﻘﺘﻝ ﻓﻠﺴﻁﻴﻨﻴﺎ" or translated "It is the duty of every Lebanese to kill a Palestinian." The GoC views Palestinians and Syria as the ultimate arch-enemies of Lebanon, encourages a nationalism that wants a return of Lebanon to its Phonecian roots, expulsion of the Palestinians, and a peace agreement and possible alliance with the State of Israel. They are the antithesis of anything the SSNP, Hizbollah, Arabists, Islamists or Syria espouse, as such they were banned by Lebanon and Syria.

When my friend drove me back to LAU it was quite evident that there is some truth to the claims that the GoC (while being a group that advocates secularism) still has many sectarian roots. She (my friend) had lived in Lebanon all her life, and while not being a Beirut native still couldn't find Hamra or LAU (Hamra, while mixed is mostly Sunni and in mainly Muslim West Beirut). Nonetheless, I observed no outright racism/anti-Muslim behavior on her part, she considered the Muslims just as Lebanese as she was.

When I returned to LAU I went to the computer lab. I started talking to a girl who said she was from Abu Dhabi. She, like most Lebanese women and girls who attend LAU was quite pretty and dressed just as a teenage girl would dress in the US: showing cleavage, in jeans, and a designer top. Her friend was in a mini-skirt and a very tight top, so when I found out they were both members and supporters of Hizbollah I was truly suprised (I always pictured women in a flowing chador packing a Klashnikov). They were both extremely polite to me, eventhough my views directly opposed theirs, and I was allowed to hear their view on the US in the Middle East, which was nothing short of misinformed. There is nothing better then hearing disproven "theories" on Israel, 9-11, and the US. Later we went to the convienence store across the street to pick up some drinks and sweets, one of the girls was nice enough to bring down Arabic bread and some home made labbneh, then made us all some sandwitches.

Note on new photos:
1. Picture of the site that was bombed in Achrafieh.
2. Pictures of the beach, Harrisa, Rouche, Rabieh, Hamra, W.Beirut, LAU, and AUB.
3. A few personal pictures with good friends.